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Control Spider Mites in your Garden
CONTROLLING SPIDER MITE INFESTATIONS:
Q: I have tried Neem oil, Organicide and ladybugs [to
control spider mites]. I started with the ladybugs - they
didn't work, then Neem - which killed some plants, then Organicide and
it keeps the population down but doesn't get rid of them. What
would you recommend next? Also I am using a clone machine with a
heater and Humboldt Roots and a rooting gel under a compact fluorescent
light.
A: Spider mite control is a
popular (although un-popular) subject around here. The long list of
products we've got to offer can be intimidating, but I believe that most
all of our product offerings are great alternatives to the chemical
sprays you'd find in the mainstream. I personally think that just about
any of these can be effective when used correctly, and the approach you
take to the treatment may be more important than the actual spray that
you're using.
Wait no longer than 3-5 days between
applications:
Waiting no longer than 3-5 days
between applications is, in my opinion, the main key to gaining
control. Just keep going with the sprays every 3-5 days until
after you know you've won the battle. If you wait any longer
between treatments, that helps the mites to develop a resistance to
your sprays.
Spider mites avoid the light:
Spider mites avoid the light, so they
hang out on the bottoms of the leaves and stems, which is where you
should concentrate your efforts with the spray.
For the same reason, turn your lights
off at least an hour before applying any spray, because the dark
will bring the mites out from under the leaves, to where the spray
can hit them easier.
Use a variety of insecticides:
You're doing the right thing by
varying the type of spray. It's probably best to change to a
different type of spray after 3-4 applications of any one kind.
Don't completely give up on the sprays that you've already used, but
keep them in your arsenal for future use.
Pyrethrin based spray (chrysanthemum
flower extract) is probably the most common main ingredient for
insecticides, and it can work well, but spider mites can develop a
resistance to it so you have to use it with some reserve.
Pyrethrin sprays affect your flavor quality
the least
out of all the different sprays,
so it's probably good to reserve the use of pyrethrins (Don't
Bug Me,
Doktor Doom Spider Mite Knockout...) until
later on when you've got developing fruit or veggies on the plant.
Use the heavy oils like
Neem and
Organocide before your
fruiting or flowering has begun, as they can affect flavor quality
of developing fruit.
If you've tried everything else, a series of bombs has been proven
to be a very effective approach when all others have failed.
Try the
Doktor Doom One-Two Punch
which uses pyrethrin as it's base in a combined approach of bombs
and a manual spray. It includes one can Doktor Doom Spider
Mite Knockout AND three cans Doktor Doom Fogger.
By setting off Doktor Doom Fogger 3 - 5 days apart,
and applying separate targeted applications of Doktor Doom Spider
Mite Knockout to the
bottoms of the leaves, you can have a more complete approach to eradicating
spider mites from your growroom. Find Doktor Doom One-Two
Punch package
here.
Predatory Insects:
My last suggestion can be an expensive
one. Ladybugs are OK for preventative maintenance, but not really
aggressive enough to get rid of a bad problem. If you start using
ladybugs as preventative maintenance, you've got to continue to
release them every week or so, and if you keep it up they can
maintain control.
The expensive approach I mentioned is another live predator called
"Triple Threat" spider mite predators. You can think of these as
your insurance policy against infestations if you continue to add
them indefinitely your area. All they do is eat spider mites and
eggs, and they don't like the light either, so they hang out in the
same places as the mites do. I'd recommend using these guys in
close to the same way I recommended using the sprays, with regular
scheduled releases. If you're treating a bad infestation, start out
with a release of the correct number of predator mites
once a week for 3-4 weeks
(check www.naturescontrol.com
for this info), then you can back off to twice a month. The
continued use of them will almost guarantee a spidermite-free
environment as long as you follow all of the recommendations.
Your atmospheric conditions are really the key to successful use
with any predators, as you've got to give them the correct
temperature and humidity. The predators are obviously not for
everyone. If you'd like to explore their use, check out our
suppliers website at
www.naturescontrol.com,
or you can buy them from us in the retail store.
